Mission Accomplished?

As many of you know, I am now back home in Steamboat Springs, CO.  Having been back for no more than four days, I've already been assailed by the obligatory "How was Africa?!?" question. Well, I answer,  Kenya was .....hmm......great!, frustrating, good, interesting, an adventure....and all the other non-descript, non-comital adjectives I can think of.

This last blog post is my attempt to articulate (with a bit more clarity than aforementioned responses) my final reflection on the experience. And I figured my faithful readers deserve an account of my whereabouts in the last few weeks. Bear with me, though, since I'm now finding it hard to produce a witty-yet-sentimental description of my last days in Kenya.

Though my internship commitment technically lasted until December 15, I decided to leave Kisumu the week after World Fisheries Day was over. By that time, I was fairly disenchanted with the operation of IFP and my interactions with my boss. And since I think WFD pretty much wiped out the whole staff, I could foresee no immediate project that would require my attention in the Kisumu office. So with no objection from my boss, I returned to Nairobi.

In Nairobi, my friend Moses was hosting an art camp at the community center he runs in Mathare, one of Nairobi's biggest slums. I figured I'd stop by and help out, giving me a chance to catch up with friends and get away from IFP. It turns out, my contribution at art camp was about as extensive as at IFP, but somehow the experience was far more satisfying. Officially, I helped supervise the painting of a mural on the outside of the Inspiration Center, but since the painters were far more artistic and self-sufficient than I am, I mostly just watched. I also became the self-appointed "kindergarten teacher," playing with adorable little kids who weren't old enough to participate in any of the classes. 

The mural designed and painted by slum kids depicting the transition from violence to peace in their community

 Tindi and Smitho, my favorite playmates 

  
I spent Thanksgiving evening with all the art camp volunteers. To my surprise, we pulled off an extensive American feast--complete with a very freshly slaughtered Turkey, mashed potatoes, and sweat potato pie. We didn't eat until 10:30 since the bird didn't get in the oven until about 6:30 due to power failures, but I couldn't have asked for a better turkey day celebration half way across the world.

After spending a few days finishing up some stuff for IFP on my computer, I finally got the beach vacation I had been lusting after since I got to Kenya. In typical Kenyan fashion,  my friends Aimee, Ken, and Kylee planned a last minute trip to the coast. After an uncomfortable bus ride through the night, we arrived at 6am a bit dazed and confused in Mombasa. As us white girls hid in the bus company waiting room, Ken negotiated with a taxi driver to take us south to Diani beach, on of the main resort towns of the south coast. After searching for a bit, we scored a great apartment at Coral Beach Cottages right on the beach for about $50/night total.

I thought Kisumu was hot, but after being in Mombasa, Kisumu is mild. The heat and humidity of the coast is stifling. The last time I sweat so much was in the Malaysian jungle. And unlike my previous experiences in the Pacific, jumping in the Indian Ocean isn't a cool refresher--infact, it's more like a warm bath.

     

The beach at Coral Beach was quite coral-y (imagine that!) and the water was quite shallow--not really the place for body surfing or playing in the crashing waves. But it did make for some unexpected sea life observation. One afternoon we took a little glass bottomed boat out a couple hundred yards for a snorkeling adventure. From the shore, the rocky coral looks a bit lifeless and dull against the backdrop of sparkling turquoise water and swaths of white sand beaches. Duck your head under, though, and the shallow waters are teaming with life--tropical fish, bright red sea stars, prickly urchins, slimy sea cucumbers.

Kylee, Me, Ken, and Aimee

Other coastal highlights include: a delicious dinner of the freshest fish I'd ever had--white snapper bought from an fisherman who had just emerged from the water in his wet track suit and woolen cap, fish in hand; chillin' with the monkeys that scampered about the compound; sun-soaked lounging overlooking white sand and azure ocean; enjoying an overpriced glass of wine with a backdrop of sparkling stars and lapping waves.

Dinner

After returning to Nairobi for a couple days more, I set off to Kisumu to visit my host family for one last time. It was a short visit, but I was really glad to see them again. I was starting to miss the constant attention of small children wanting to play with my expensive electronics and climb on me like a jungle gym. I worked in one final pizza dinner for the family and had spoiled the kids with candy, movies, and popcorn. It was really sad to say goodbye for real this time, not knowing when/if I'll be back to visit. Staying with the Madaras was truly one of the most rewarding parts of the whole internship experience.

So the final verdict?

Mission accomplished. Though the entire process was quite frustrating, I don't regret it at all. In fact, I learned a great deal, both about myself and about working in the world of NGOs. I learned the virtues of patience and flexibility, but I also learned  the value of assertiveness and initiative. I learned how truly privileged my life has really been, and I struggled with how to carry this privilege when confronted with disadvantage. Most of all, I learned to be grateful for all the things I take for granted in the US: education, democracy, safety, efficiency, peace, and a good cup of coffee.

Ever since my first trip to Kenya two and a half years ago, something about the country and its people was drawing me back. This time around, I return with a far less romantic notion of the place, but its place in my heart has only expanded. Despite all its pesky characteristics like corruption, danger, inefficiency, and Nescafe, I am even more compelled towards the complexities the culture presents.

For now, I'm back at home, trying to enjoy all the creature comforts it entails without getting too distracted by the growing angst of the "I have no idea what I'm doing with my life" syndrome (compounded by the fact  that it's about the worst time in several decades to be looking for a job). And while it is the first time in my life I have absolutely no idea what comes next, I'm excited for my next adventure, wherever it may be.

Peace.